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1. Prepare the squabs for broiling by cutting them down the back from the neck to the tail with a large knife or poultry shears. Then spread the squabs out skin side up and, with a sharp blow of a meat cleaver or wooden mallet, break the curved rib bones so that the birds lie flat. Twist the wing tips under the shoulders.
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2. Preheat the broiler to its highest point. Combine the butter, soy sauce and lemon juice in a large, shallow baking dish. Dip the squabs, one at a time, in the butter mixture to saturate them thoroughly.
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3. Arrange them, skin side down, on the broiler rack and sprinkle them generously with salt and a few grindings of black pepper. Slide the rack about 3 inches below the heat and broil the squabs for about 6 minutes undisturbed.
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4. Then brush them with the butter and turn them over with tongs. Brush the squabs with more of the butter mixture, sprinkle generously with salt and a few grindings of black pepper and broil about 6 minutes longer. Watch them carefully for any sign of burning and regulate the broiler heat accordingly.
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5. The squabs should be crisp and golden brown when they are done. To serve, arrange them on a heated platter and pour the broiler pan juices over them. Garnish with crisp watercress. The spoon bread would make a fine accompaniment.
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