Grilled Soybean Curd With Miso Dressing
(Dengaku Tofu)
The appearance of skewered "tofu" decorated with white and/or green "miso, "may remind Americans of an ice-cream popsicle. There, of course, the resemblance ends, although "dengaku tofu" is treated as a sweet course by the Japanese. The green colored "miso" is made, in Japan, with ground "sansho" leaves, which are not available in the United States. Spinach makes an admirable substitute, with packaged "sansho" powder added for flavor.
What You Need:
2 cakes fresh tofu (soybean curd), cut into 8 pieces each ¾ inch wide by 3 inches long
¼ pound fresh spinach leaves, stripped from their stems
1. Preheat the broiler to its highest point. Place the pieces of tofu side by side in a flameproof baking dish just large enough to hold them in one snug layer.
2. Add enough cold water to come halfway up the sides of the tofu, then slide the dish under the broiler, as close to the heat as possible. Sear the tofu for a few seconds, then turn the pieces with a spatula and sear the other side. The tofu will be speckled but not evenly browned. Remove the pan from the broiler and set aside.
3. In a 1½-to 2-quart saucepan, bring 2 cups of water to a boil. Add the spinach leaves and boil uncovered for about 2 minutes. Then drain in a sieve and run cold water over the spinach to cool it quickly and set its color. Squeeze the spinach firmly to rid it of all its moisture and chop it fine.
4. In a suribachi (serrated mixing bowl) or with a mortar and pestle, pound or mash the spinach to a paste. Then with the back of a large spoon, rub it through a fine sieve into a mixing bowl.
5. Stir half of the shiro miso and a few sprinkles of kona sansho into the spinach, continuing to stir until the miso paste has turned a delicate green.
6. Place the remaining shiro miso in a small bowl and mix until smooth.
7. Over moderate heat, bring the pan of seared tofu (with the water still in the pan) almost to the boil. Remove from the heat and spoon the green miso dressing into a pastry bag equipped with ribbon tip.
8. Squeeze the miso along the top of 4 pieces of tofu, covering the top of each piece. (Lacking a pastry bag, spread a thin film of miso on each piece of tofu with a spatula, and run the prongs of a fork down the miso to create serrated lines.) Cover the remaining tofu with the plain miso.
9. Insert two 4- to 6-inch bamboo skewers or small lobster forks halfway through the length of each piece of tofu. Return the tofu to the water in the baking dish and sear under the broiler for a few seconds. Serve at room temperature, as the sweet course in a Japanese meal.
