1. In a large bowl, toss together the cheeses and cornstarch until thoroughly combined. Pour the wine into a 2-quart fondue dish (or any 2-quart flameproof enameled casserole), drop in the garlic, and bring to a boil over high heat.
2. Let the wine boil briskly for 1 or 2 minutes, then with a slotted spoon remove and discard the garlic. Lower the heat so that the wine barely simmers.
3. Stirring constantly with a table fork, add the cheese mixture a handful at a time, letting each handful melt before adding another.
4. When the fondue is creamy and smooth, stir in the kirsch, nutmeg, salt and a few grindings of black pepper, and taste for seasoning.
5. To serve, place the fondue dish or casserole over an alcohol or gas table burner in the center of the dining table, regulating the heat so that the fondue barely simmers.
6. Set a basketful of the bread cubes alongside the fondue. Traditionally, each diner spears a cube of bread on a fork (preferably a long-handled fondue fork), swirls the bread about in the fondue until it is thoroughly coated, then eats it immediately.
