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1. Select the fish according to directions. Cut the fillet into slices ½ inch thick and 6 or 7 inches long or as long as the sheet of nori.
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2. To intensify its flavor and color, pass the nori, a sheet at a time-and on one side only-over a gas flame or candle.
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3. Lay the nori flat on a hard surface-the Japanese use a bamboo mat to facilitate the rolling-with the wide side of the mat facing toward you.
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4. Place a long slice of fish along the length of the nori and roll the nori into a long, thick, tight cylinder.
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5. With a sharp knife cut it crosswise into 1½-inch slices. Roll and cut the remaining fish and nori in similar fashion.
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6. Serve with a dipping sauce, as part of a Japanese meal or first course.
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