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SAFFRON THREADS: Orange-red dried stigmas of a flower of the crocus family. Though chiefly used in cooking to color food a golden yellow, saffron threads also contribute a mildly bitter flavor. Powdered saffron, where available, may be substituted, but in this case use only half the quantity called for in the recipe. Available in threads or powdered.
SAHINA: Deep-fried fritter of Indian origin made from TARO leaves and split-pea meal.
SAKE: Although called rice wine, sake is more closely related to beer. When used as a beverage, usually heated gently in the bottle before serving. It is also an important seasoning ingredient in cooking. Available at liquor in stock or on special order.
SALAM (daun salam, Indonesian laurel leaves): Dried Far Eastern bay leaves, sold in small bundles by importers of Indonesian foods and in some Oriental food stores.
SALT COD, DRIED (baccala): Codfish that has been cured with salt, common in Mediterranean and Caribbean cooking. Must be soaked in water for at least 18 hours, changing the water several times, before you cook it. Buy in good delicatessens and seafood shops.
SALTED EGGS: Duck eggs soaked in brine for a month or more. Sold individually in Chinese specialty stores only. The yolks are sold separately in packets. Store in refrigerator. No substitute.
SALTPETER: A common kitchen chemical used in the preservation of meat or preparing corned beef or pork (such as KIELBASA). May be purchased at a drugstore.
SANCOCHO (sancoche): Stew of the Spanish-speaking islands made with a variety of meats and vegetables.
SAPODILLO: See NASEBERRY.
SAUSAGE CASINGS: Made from beef or pork products, these are available by special order from good meat.
SAUTERNE: A white domestic table wine, not the French Sauternes.
SCALLIONS, PICKLED: Pickled olive-sized white bulbs of small green onions, available in jars in Oriental specialty shops.
SEA EGG: Island name for a white sea urchin, the ovaries of which are considered a delicacy.
SEMOLINA: Finely granulated meal made from the branless inner kernels of durum wheat grains. It is used in the manufacture of pasta and couscous. Available in Middle Eastern or specialty stores.
SEREH: See LEMON GRASS.
SESAME SEED OIL: Strong, faintly nutty-flavored oil made from roasted sesame seeds. Sold in bottles in Oriental specialty stores. It will keep indefinitely. No substitute. Do not confuse it with the mild sesame seed oil sometimes sold in supermarkets.
SESAME SEEDS: Tiny, flat seeds, either black or white. Sold by weight in Oriental specialty stores, in Middle Eastern and Italian stores, and gourmet food shops. Store in a covered container. No substitute.
SHADDOCK (pomelo): Thick-skinned citrus fruit, from which the grapefruit was developed, with sharp-tasting, reddish flesh; introduced into the islands in the 17th Century.
SHARK'S FIN: Long threads of dried cartilage from the fins of sharks. Sold by weight and in 6- or 8-ounce boxes in Chinese specialty stores. It will keep indefinitely. No substitute.
SHIITAKE: Japanese mushroom, available dried in bags or packages in Oriental markets. Can be stored indefinitely in their packages. They are usually reconstituted by soaking in water for at least 30 minutes before using.
SHIRATAKI: Literally, "white waterfall". Shredded form of konnyaku, long vermicelli-like threads available canned or in small cartons in Japanese markets.
SHOGA: Gnarled, brown fresh ginger root, about 4 inches long available fresh in Oriental and Puerto Rican specialty shops. Will keep for a few weeks wrapped in paper toweling in the refrigerator.
SHORT-GRAIN RICE (pearl rice): The most common rice in Japanese cooking. It has a short oval shape compared to long-grain rice.
SHOYU: Japanese soy sauce, a pungent brown liquid made of fermented soybeans, barley, yeast and salt. Japanese soy sauce is more delicate and less salty than the Chinese or domestic brands.
SHRIMP PASTE: See BAGOONG, TRASSI.
SHRIMP, DRIED: Tiny shrimp with a sharp salty flavor, sold by weight or in 1-ounce cellophane packages in Chinese or Latin American specialty food shops. Store in refrigerator in plastic bag or covered jar. No substitute.
SHROB (shrub): Liqueur made on the French islands from rum and the peel of bitter oranges.
SILVER FOIL (vark): Edible silver in ultra-thin sheets. Used for fancy garnishing in Indian cooking.
SKORDALIA (Greece): Garlic sauce.
SMITHFIELD HAM: Cured smoked ham with a strong, distinctive flavor, sold already cooked. Not Chinese, but close in taste to Chinese ham. Available by weight or by the slice in Chinese specialty stores, gourmet shops and some supermarkets. Will keep for several weeks tightly wrapped in foil or plastic in refrigerator. Substitute Italian prosciutto or Westphalian ham.
SNOW PEAS: Flat, pale-green peas eaten pods and all. Sold fresh by weight in Oriental specialty stores and also available frozen in 10 ounce boxes in supermarkets. Store fresh ones in plastic bag in refrigerator; use as soon as possible.
SOBA: Thin buckwheat-flour noodles, available packaged in Japanese markets.
SOFRITO: The term literally means lightly fried and describes a basic sauce used in Spanish and island cooking. Always made with either onions or garlic and often with both, a sofrito usually contains tomatoes, peppers, herbs, spices and ham. Its ingredients are c
SOMEN: Fine white wheat-flour noodles, usually eaten cold. Available in Japanese markets. A substitute is very thin spaghetti.
SOPITO: Creamy fish chowder made with coconut milk; a specialty of the Dutch islands.
SORREL (roselle, rosella, flor de Jamaica): Tropical flower grown throughout the islands. Its fleshy sepal (the leaf like calyx or cup beneath the blossom) has a faintly acid taste and is used in making drinks, jams, jellies and sauces. Available dried in Latin American markets.
SOURSOP: Large dark-green heart shaped fruit with spiny skin. Its pithy flesh has black seeds and is slightly acid. Often made into a drink or ice cream.
SOUVLA (Greece): A skewer used for grilling.
SOY SAUCE: Pungent, salty, brown liquid made from fermented soybeans, wheat, yeast and salt. The imported Chinese and Japanese sauces are best and are available in various-sized bottles in supermarkets as well as Oriental specialty stores.
  • LIGHT: To be used when you don't want to color a dish with caramel coloring, which is what dark soy contains. Do not confuse this with "Lite" soy sauce, which is lower in salt and flavor. Find in Oriental markets.
  • DARK: Used in dishes in which you wish to color the meat and sweeten the flavor with caramel sugar. Most common soy sauce. Buy good quality.
  • JAPANESE: Chinese soy is very different from Japanese. Japanese soy sauce contain much more wheat flour and sugar. Buy in larger quantities at a Japanese market. It is cheaper that way and it will keep well if kept sealed.
SPANAKOPETA (Greece): Phyllo puffs stuffed with spinach.
STAMP AND GO: Jamaican fried codfish cakes; made of a heavy batter flavored with annatto, onions and chilies.
STAR ANISE: Dry, brown, licorice-flavored spice resembling an 8-pointed star, about 1 inch across. Sold whole (though often the sections break apart) by weight in Oriental specialty stores. Store indefinitely in tightly covered containers.
STAR FRUIT: See CARAMBOLA.
STRAW MUSHROOMS: Small button like mushrooms indigenous to Asia. Fresh ones are so delicate that they aren't shipped.
SU: Rice vinegar, available bottled or canned, in various sizes, at Oriental markets. A good substitute is cider vinegar, but mild white vinegar will suffice.
SUMAC: Herb grown in the Middle East. Burgundy or rust in color and has a wonderful tangy flavor. The Persians sprinkle it on their food and the Lebanese enjoy it as well.
SURULUTOS: Puerto Rican fried cornmeal-and-cheese sticks.
SWEET POTATO (boniato): Tuberous vegetable native to the Americas. Its skin color ranges from nearly white to brown, pink, magenta and even putple. The flesh may be white, yellow, orange or purple. Yellow- and orange- fleshed varieties are popular in the United States and are available in most groceries; white sweet potatoes may be found in Latin American markets. Often confused with YAM.
SWEET RICE FLOUR (glutinous rice flour): Waxy type of flour made from glutinous or sticky rice. Sold by weight in Japanese markets and as glutinous rice flour in Chinese markets.
SZECHWAN PEPPER (fagara): Speckled brown peppercorns with a mildly hot flavor and a pleasant scent. Sold whole, not ground, by weight in Chinese specialty shops. It will keep indefinitely in tightly covered containers. No substitute.
 
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